Is El Ateneo the most beautiful book store in the world?
(This is a guest post from Robert E. Zink, who has spent the past few years living and working in Argentina.)
Like you, I remember my first fountain pen. Even today, the feel of a classic writing instrument in my hand still induces an experience that no other tool can produce. What I did not realize at the time was that defining myself as a fountain pen user would identify me as part of a unique worldwide community; soon, I realized just how worldwide. Seven years later and I now live in Argentina, an initial move that brought a question: Can my fountain pen life continue in this new place?
Latin culture rarely invokes images or descriptions of fine writing instruments. However, Argentina is unique among those Latin countries, which is prominently displayed in its fountain pen community. It’s yet an additional characteristic that exposes the European influence. Unfortunately, for someone like me, who lives in a rural part of the country, the fountain pen community primarily exists in Buenos Aires. It makes sense; the majority of the population and wealth inhabit the 13th largest city in the world. Thankfully, online merchandise gives the rest of the country access to this community, although minimally (because few shops sell online).
Visit the city, and you’ll find the typical brands such as Pelikan, Montblanc, Lamy, or Cross. Are you a stationery enthusiast? If so, here’s what you can expect to find:
- Pens: I’m not sure why, but Lamy occupies a prominent position. However, many of the major brands are represented in both pens and ink.
- Pencils: You won’t find many elite pencil brands, but sketching generates a presence for Staedtler. Faber-Castell also maintains immense recognition because of the popularity of their lower-end products with school children.
- Paper: Quality paper is another story. There are some beautiful handmade journals if you want a nice souvenir. But if your hope is to find something with fountain pen friendly paper, unless you’re looking for a Moleskine, your expectations are too high.
While there are a few well-known shops and collectors, the best finds come from simply walking the streets in the central area. Check out the Recoleta area (where Evita is laid to rest) on your way to my favorite bookstore in the world, El Ateneo. Enjoy your new acquisitions there while you sip a cup of espresso on the stage of this former opera house. The environment invites writing.
Ultimately, culture defines availability. Because Argentina is a land of beef, it is also a land of leather, but that craft has not worked its way into the stationery industry as much as I would like. I do have a beautiful leather folder that elicits attention wherever I go. If you are fortunate enough to visit, these make a wonderful souvenir. Generally, finding notebook covers that meet my needs or pen cases is non-existent. Cost is the biggest defining factor. A fledgling economy with 50% inflation places fountain pens into the luxury item category. Additionally, high import fees push the cost higher, out of reach for most Argentines. In an era of technology, though, Argentina is a land where pen and paper still reign.
Many people are surprised to note a thriving fountain pen community here. Overall, the average user will likely find himself/herself content. However, participation in it does mean adjusting expectations in the following ways:
- Expect to Search More: A committed enthusiast will expend a lot of energy searching for pen, ink, and paper. I once stumbled on a Visconti Van Gogh on an unknown side street only because I got lost.
- Expect to See Less: Your requests cannot be too specific, as options here are limited, especially at the higher price points.
- Expect to Pay More: Finally, expect to pay more. A non-special edition Lamy Safari will set you back about $38 USD (about $9 more than the typical price). Many of the common brands of ink also run about $4 more per bottle.
The country was in the middle of a significant economic downturn when the COVID-19 crisis hit. It will be interesting to see what the fountain pen industry will look like afterward, assuming it will survive.
